What Is Thread Count, Really? (And Why Higher Isn't Always Better)
Thread count is probably the most-quoted number in the bedding world and also one of the most misunderstood. Shoppers are trained to treat it like a quality score: higher number, better sheets. In reality, thread count is only one piece of the puzzle, and past a certain point, it stops meaning much at all.
What Thread Count Actually Measures
Thread count is simply the number of threads woven into one square inch of fabric, counting both the horizontal threads (weft) and vertical threads (warp). A 300TC fabric has roughly 300 threads per square inch; a 400TC fabric has around 400.
In a reasonable range, this number does correlate with softness and durability. Our own 300TC cotton offers a classic, breathable feel, while 400TC provides a noticeably softer, more refined finish, a real, tangible difference you can feel between the two.
Where It Gets Misleading
Here's the part most shoppers never hear: thread count can be inflated without actually improving the fabric.
Manufacturers can twist two or more thin threads together and count each strand separately. So a "1000 thread count" sheet might really be a 500-thread fabric with each thread twisted in two. The number climbs, but the fabric isn't finer, softer, or more durable as a result. It's the textile equivalent of a marketing trick.
This is why you'll rarely see genuinely reputable, quality-focused brands advertising numbers like 800TC, 1000TC, or higher. The physics of weaving cotton at that density without the multi-ply trick simply doesn't hold up, or requires threads so thin the fabric becomes weaker over time.
What Actually Determines Quality
Thread count is only one variable. What matters just as much, if not more:
Cotton type. Long-staple cotton fibers (like Egyptian or Pima varieties) produce smoother, stronger yarns than short-staple cotton, regardless of thread count.
Weave. A percale weave gives a crisp, cool finish; a sateen weave feels silkier and drapes more. Neither is "better" it's a matter of preference, but the weave affects feel far more than an extra 100 threads would.
Finishing. How the fabric is treated after weaving (washing, softening processes) has a major impact on how it actually feels in your hands, independent of the thread count on the label.
A Simple Way to Shop
Rather than chasing the highest number you can find, look for:
- A thread count in the 200–400 range, which reliably delivers good quality without inflation tricks
- A stated cotton type or fiber (like long-staple cotton or TENCEL™) rather than just a number
- A weave that matches how you like your sheets to feel crisp and cool, or smooth and silky
Our Approach
We keep our cotton at 300TC and 400TC specifically because that's the range where quality is genuine and verifiable, not manufactured through thread-twisting. If a fabric feels exceptional, it's because of the fiber and weave doing the work. Not a number designed to catch your eye.
Curious how our 300TC and 400TC cotton compare in person? Browse our bed linen collection, or read our guide on TENCEL™ vs cotton if you're deciding between fibers as well as thread count.